Monday, November 5, 2012


all day long, pleasing us during our long drive through the Negev, preserving its pretty hue till late afternoon and returning it the next  morning to the horizon. The chosen desert lodge (Chavat Nachal Boker, near Sde Boker) was waiting for us in the midday sun, its few tracks nothing but stony paths, covered with sand, surrounded by a small garden, with plants not minding the daily hot and nightly cold climate of the dry acrid region, but thriving anyway.

Our "hotel" was just a hut, a rustic cabin, built from natural material, like wood, bamboo and straw, roofed with palm fronds, integrating perfectly into the landscape, adapting, not disturbing the barren view of soft hills and shallow valleys. Very lovely and charming! Spot clean and comfortable! No TV, no telephone of course, but a porch to relax and to flow into a desert state of mind in the late afternoon and evening hours.

The breeze rushing in the few acacia trees and causing the hammock to swing gently was quietening down at night, only the lonely howling of the wilderness jackals could be heard.
Mornings in the desert are always gorgeous, the air fresh and scented. Birds awakening early.

Being more adventurous a tent could have been rented in an adjoining lodge, with shared bathroom facilities outside.

A pretty handmade set of a table and chairs waiting for a healthy breakfast being served!

Satisfied with a full belly we started out to reach our goal of Ein Saharonim (עין סהרונים), a small spring (ein) at the lowest point of the Machtesh Ramon, created from ground water, and the location of one of the most ancient Nabatean ruins, a caravansary, serving as a resting spot at the spice trade route, chosen for the water source being nearby. The road number 40 goes down from Mitzpe Ramon through the marvelous huge Ramon crater. A left turn is to be taken to the Be'erot Camp and from there a stony dirt road, passing over many dry wadis and flat water beds, arrives after several kilometers at a giant slanted stone wall.

Mount Ardon

The stone wall.
It contents red, green and yellow clay, the colors generated by different minerals in the rock, by water seeping through it, and by erosion. It is an amazing sight and worth a stop to investigate. After ten more minutes of driving the khan can be seen.

We parked the car and walked the short distance to the spring passing the caravansary on our left. 

During a visit many many (maybe twenty) years ago, we spotted onagers at the spring, the untamable wild Asian ass. I was hoping to see them again, but we had no luck. Just to show you: this one we spotted in April 2010 in the Negev, beside the trail to Borot Lotz.

The oasis of Ein Sahoranim is truly beautiful with rich desert vegetation and many puddles of water, even now at the end of the dry season. Our walk was short but full of images, the blue sky, the dark green and spiky plants, the colored rocks and many stones. The warm air was scented from the bushes and full of quiet noises, the rustle of the reeds, the gurgle of the water, the buzz of the insects...

I am happy - and I am thankful for such a wonderful weekend! It went right into my memory storage and I will dig it out whenever I want it or need it! 

Bedouine camels flanking the road on our way home.

Photos taken by my husband Uri Eshkar.


Smultron said...

Hej Yael,
jetzt weiß ich wenigstens, wo das große Blaue geblieben ist.:-)
Eine wundervoll archaische Landschaft, unvergesslich.

mit herzlichen Grüßen
aus Schweden

rachel awes said...

i can't get over how
your life is a dream
come true.
beautiful photos, dear.

Annuk said...

What an amazing place, Yael!
The landscapes are amazing... I have always been fascinated by the spiritual and meditative quality of deserts. And that eco-lodge... really fascinating... a place for relaxing and listening to your soul!

wanda miller said...

...and now i am pining for the desert that i love...the solitude and quiet hush and spectacular anything that shows up in the barren! LOVE seeing that smile up there on that porch you YAEL! XOXO

Dawn of LaTouchables said...

Magnificent, Yael! Your breakfast table looks so yummy, and you are a beauty in the vastness of that stark landscape!!!

--across the big pond XO

Hilde said...

Looks like you had a wonderful trip, Yael. Great photos, the desert scenery is amazing!
I love the cottage, that must be the perfect place to relax :)

stardust said...

Wow, Yael, you had such a fascinating weekend, I’m envious of you! The incredibly blue sky as you wrote, beautiful borders on the stone walls,... and the charming camel..., everything is so exciting. Whenever I accompany you, I’m reminded that the desert of Israel is not barren but animated with wildlife and plants, not so vividly but a little subdued way, therefore, more moving. Your hotel is apparently humble but with rich taste of natural materials in real. Rustic simplicity is the most beautiful, refined, and comfortable. We call the sky in the first photo “mackerel sky” which is typical of our autumn. Thanks for sharing this tour with us. Have happy days ahead and give my best regards to Uri.


Bob Bushell said...

That looks lovely, I wish that I could be there, ah, wishes are wishes. The ones that appeal to me, as usual, is the ones with the camel and ass, beautiful shooting.

TarracoStyle said...

fantástico lugar para relajarse...
unas fotos preciosas.
muchos besos

Eva said...

How wonderful! And you just look great. I love to have it a little simple and down-to-earth in my holidays; and above all, I love a nap in a hammock!

Sacramento Amate said...

How exciting, my friend, ahhhhhhhhhhhh

Zaunwinde said...

Wie herrlich für dich, liebe Yael, dass du so ein wunderschönes Wochenende erleben durftest.
Herzlichen Dank, dass du uns teilhaben lässt an all den interessanten Stationen.
Herzlichst Zaunwinde

Mary Stanley said...

Thank you for a wonderful trip to your desert! Incredible photos as always and fascinating story to go along with it....xoxo

Pesky Cat Designs said...

Beautiful photos! I would love to stay in a cottage like that. So peaceful.
I've been working an outside job so I have less time to blog but I am always excited to learn of your latest travels and catch up with your amazing life! Have a wonderful weekend Yael. :)

Hanne Bente said...

Hello Yael
I have let you inside by Anna (Annuk Creation) and Hilda (From season to season) my new blog friends.
Many beautiful nature pictures you show from Israel.
Wish you a good day :)
Hanne Bente -